Kellogg wins Khan Tengri - Congratulations Chad !

Chad Kellogg won the annual Khan Tengri speed-climbing competition in Kazkhstan this past August. The former Mt. Rainier climbing ranger raced from basecamp to the 22,300-foot point on Khan Tengri and then back to basecamp in 6 hours, 11 minutes, 46 seconds.

Earlier this summer, Chad set a new mark for climbing Denali’s West Buttress from basecamp at 7,200 feet to the 20,320-foot summit in 14 hours and 22 minutes.

Chad has graciously agreed to appear on behalf of the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund and present slides from his trip to Kazakhstan. Chad will be at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder on December 11th, The Colorado Mountain Club in Golden, December 13th and at George Mason University, time and date to be announced.

Osprey Packs continues to be a strong supporter of the fund. Osprey has offered to donate packs to the Central Sports Club of Alamty, for use by club members who need equipment for climbing in the nearby Tien Shan mountains. Osprey is also supporting next year's exchange climbers with equipment. Our grateful thanks to the wonderful folks at Osprey.

Dan Mazur at conducted a series of multi-media shows throughout Colorado and New Mexico on behalf of the fund. His efforts brought some much needed money to our bank account which is struggling to make our ambitious plans of sending four women to Kazakhstan next year and bringing a Kazakh woman here to climb.

Izba Tea - Big Hit with Climbers !! We just received a second order for Boukreev Tea by Izba from a climber who wrote that he has just returned from Alaska and having this tea to brew up was in his words "a real treat". Izba donates a portion of the sales to the fund so order some today !

Couriers Needed - We have equipment donations needing to go to Almaty, Kazakhstan. If you are headed that way please take some with you. Call Scott at 800-743-1929 or e mail to

From Brenton Reagan, one of the exchange climbers from this year's program:

Just got back in town a few days ago and had an unbelievable trip. Everyday was a different and amazing adventure. I cannot thank you, Jack and the rest of the board for a fantastic chance to climb in Asia. I don't know what to say except that I owe you guys big time. I did not make it to the top I only got to around 21,000 feet due the fact that I got a stomach bug at the beginning of the trip and it cost me the days needed to make it to the top. It doesn't matter because I made it back safe and in one piece. Zach did make it to the top probably due to the fact that he was better acclimated and managed to stay healthy and got to 13,500 about four days before me.

Congratulations to Simone Moro for receiving the David A Sowles award for bravery at the 100th American Alpine Club meeting. In his acceptance speech Simone said that he was a student of Anatoli's and did as Anatoli would have. Simone risked his own life to save a climber during his attempt at the Everest-Lhotse traverse. His unselfish acts cost him that traverse. See more about Simone Moro at Risk Online's pages

Applications are now being taken for the 2005 exchange grants. Applications are due by September 30th. They can be mailed to PO Box 1170, Sandia Park, NM 87047 or faxed to 800-743-1974. The grants are matching fund grants and will be awarded to the extent funds are available. If selected, we will let you know how much is being awarded. You will be responsible for making up the difference before any grants will be disbursed to you. Our goal, which is subject to fund raising efforts and donations, is to provide a grant for half of the total trip costs.  Please see this link below for more information.

Congratulations to Valetova Elena Evgenyevna from Kazakhstan who received a grant to come to the US and climb Denali. Steve House who received a grant to participate in Festival Khan Tengri 2003 and Melis Coady, Molly Loomis, Keri Meagher, Aubrey Knapp who will go as a group to Kazakhstan in 2004. Click here for more information.

USHBA has started manufacture of a special edition titanium ax for the Anatoli Boukreev Fund. The Altai ax is laser etched with a photo of Anatoli and signature. Only 100 of these will be produced and each is numbered and comes with a certificate of authenticity. Watch this site for a photo and more information soon. E mail us at for price.

Best wishes to Gerard Brillantes, who is working on a Russian-English climbing dictionary. The ABMF is happy to support projects such as his which help bridge the language gap and make it easier for climbers of many lands to enjoy the mountains together safely!

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