The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund

 `Our trip was very useful to learn the American way of mountaineering and how to respect the nature. There are a lot of new young members in our mountaineering club and we try to introduce and instill all knowledge which it gave us.

-Nickoli Povetkin and Denis Grinevich

`For my generation, Anatoli set an example of how it is possible to find your own way to climb. What was really important to him was his love of mountains and climbing.  He showed us the Iron Curtain was in our minds'

-Vladimir Frolov

`Climbing in Anatoli's memory as a student in his classroom, gaining first-hand insight into the heritage of his success...these were the day dreams of a mountaineer living in the Midwest. The Memorial Fund provided me a once-in-a-lifetime experience, making my dreams a reality.

-Steve Graepel, 1999

Below are some of Steve's pictures from Khan Tengri!

The Flight In

From left to right, Chapaev (6371), Khan Tengri (7010) and the South Inylcheck glacier flowing below both as seen from the helicopter ride in (note the rotor blade in the upper right hand corner).

Base Camp

Our base camp was located 2 miles from Khan Tengri's base and provided the essentials for trips up and down the mountain. As an exchange student, I worked closely with the Kazak students, helping to set up camp, get water, and make meals. Although there were U.S. climbers in camp, I tried to spend as much time as possible with the Kazak students.

Acclimatizing And Setting Camps

Our first trip on the mountain was cut short due to deep snow that hadn't had a chance to consolidate. Shortly after, we made camp and turned back the following morning due to more inclement weather. Typically we had 4-5 clear days, followed by another 4-5 days of rain and snow. If you were out of synch with the weather, you could spend a lot of time waiting it out in base camp.

Taking A Break At 5000m

Sergei and Vasili are silhouetted against Khan Tengri's southwest ridge. This was our second trip on the mountain, en route to the 5800m col camp. This was also where I sold them on the benefits of energy gels.

Looking Out To Pic Pobeda 7439m

Dry winds from the Taklimakan desert typically meets cold weather pushing in from the west over Pobeda, the tallest peak in the area. As a result, Pobeda is almost always shrouded in clouds. Pobeda has earned a reputation as one of the most dangerous peaks in the world.

Summit Day

Vasili is nearing the rocky summit. Dima, not far behind, had not acclimatized to anything over 4600m. This was also his third birthday celebrated on Khan Tengri's summit.

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